'ad it with Amsterdam? OutUK's Adrian Gillan reaches Nether-parts other guides
don't reach in Holland's nearby historic and cultural gem of Utrecht.
Utrecht is the capital, and most populous city, of the Dutch province of Utrecht; and
the fourth largest city in the Netherlands, with a population of around 300,000 - double
if you include its surrounds.|
Utrecht University is the Netherlands' largest uni - so town's throbbing with young student
cuties nearly all year round.
Due to the city's geographically central position within the
country - as "Holland's heartland" - it is also an important transport hub, as evidenced by
its vast railway station. A mere ½-hour by train direct from Schiphol Airport - and just
20 minutes from Amsterdam's Central Station - it is easily accessible, either on its own
account, or in combination with the admittedly better-known Dutch capital.
Settled since at least Roman times, Utrecht has been the
religious epicentre of the Netherlands since the 8th Century and is currently the home
of the Archbishop of Utrecht, the most important Dutch Roman Catholic leader; of the
main protestant group; and of countless churches, many of which throw open their doors
for concerts, late summer, during the Kerken Kijken Festival.
The city's medieval core is well-preserved, clustered around the Dom Tower - at
112 metres, the nation's tallest spire. Climb its 465 steps to inspect the bells and gain your
giddy bearings. It used to be attached to the nearby splendid St. Martin's Cathedral until a
Tornado hit town in 1674, crashing right through, and inadvertently creating an infamous
former gay cruising grounds amongst the rubble. Note the discreet-yet-prominent, poignant
plaque 'twixt tower and cathedral, commemorating cruisers who were "arrested, convicted
and… strangled". Gulp. Thankfully, today's attitudes are a far cry!
Sticking to the religious theme, check out the spankingly newly-renovated and vibrant
Catharijne Convent Museum - the museum for the Christian
culture and art of the entire Netherlands, housed in a medieval monastery a mere
spit-n-spunk from said Dom. Far from dusty, it glitters with famous pictures, ancient
manuscripts, statues, altar pieces, holy robes and relics.
The Dom Tower.
You get a good overview of the broader history and culture of the city and area at the
lively Centraal Museum featuring prominent regional paintings,
furnishings, fashion and design - notably the work of celebrated local designer and
architect Gerrit Rietveld (1888-1964). Don't miss the wonderfully preserved 1000-year
old wooden barge; or the intricate giant-sized dollhouse!
Just across the way, pop into child-enticing Dick Bruna Huis
which houses, and celebrates, the distinctly simple and direct draughtsmanship of local,
still-living illustrator, Dick Bruna - perhaps best known for his much-loved long-eared
cartoon bunny, Miffy.
Undoubtedly, the most relaxing way to view the city is via the hour's round trip,
gliding along Utrecht's unique sunken waterways on a Canal Tour - complete
with whacky commentary.
EATING, DRINKING & DANCING
And Utrecht is definitely a muncher's Mecca, boasting a plethora of modern Dutch cuisine
eateries, often in unusual, atmospheric settings. Check out ambient, candle-lit Artisjok
overlooking the Nieuwegracht (New Canal); take high tea (delicate cut sandwiches; scone,
cream and jam; topped off with cakes, chocolate - and, of course steaming hot tea) at
the swish Bis, overlooking the Oudegracht (Old Canal); or get lost in the scrumptious
menu at snug and friendly Cafe Kalff, in a long cellar which, again, opens out
onto the shimmering Oudegracht. Everyone is welcome as their slogan is - "Go where you're celebrated,
not where you're tolerated" - we'd certainly agree with that!
Utrecht's student-dominated gay scene has gay bars on the central
Oudegracht; plus several nearby clubs which have weekly or monthly gay parties attracting
a young crowd, and those in tow. There's normally at least one after-party on at the weekend,
so ask around.
Bodytalk, is nearby and it lures a generally slightly older crowd; but all sorts end up drawn
in by its extra-late opening hours. This is a super classic but still very modern Dutch gay bar that was one of the first
in the Netherlands. If you prefer you can also descend its inner steps to the lower, more dancy and cruisy, U-Bar. Both venues have
friendly staff and attract colorful locals many of whom speak English. On Fridays during their happy hour, the bartender will even provide some homemade snacks.
Also worth a visit is ACU which is a well established bar & club hosting cultural events including live music, spoken word, political meetings & films. They have a
range of events including some for gay men as part of a mixed programme that's been running at the venue for more than 40 years.
Getting to know the locals at a Pann night.
The club that pulls in the queer youth with monthly nights quite often on Saturdays, is Pann, which
is often held at the Tivoli de Helling, on De Helling. Check precise details on their website, as the venue can change from time to time when
the club night go off to visit other venues.
And we fully recommend the gay-beckoning 4-star
Malie Hotel on eponymous Maliestraat - a
quiet residential district, a pleasant stroll just east of centre, scene and sites.
direct to nearby Amsterdam from no fewer than 14 UK airports,
for as little as £77 return, including taxes. BA also have many flights a day to Amsterdam, and Easyjet have even more - it's
one of their most frequent routes. Be sure to compare prices before booking. For general info about Utrecht check out
THE LITTLE BLACK BOOK
ACU (Voorstraat 71; T: +31 30 231 4590; Website)
Artisjok (Nieuwegracht 33; T: +31 (0) 30 231 7494; Website)
Bis (Lijnmarkt 26; +31 (0) 30 231 5831; Website)
Bodytalk (Oudegracht 64 ; +31 (0) 30 231 5747; Website)
Cafe Kalff (Oudegracht a/d Werf 159; +31 (0) 30 231 0919; Website)
Malie Hotel (Maliestraat 2; T: +31 (0) 30 231 6424; Website)
Pann (Tivoli de Helling, De Helling 7; no phone; Website)
U-Bar (Oudegracht 64 ; no phone; Website)
Revised December 2017.