There's something about Jersey that keeps the locals fresh. OutUK's Adrian Gillan takes an alternative queer rural break on the largest of the Channel Islands - an idyllic lair of love and lust.

Jersey is known for its beaches, cliffside walking trails, inland valleys and historic castles. So is it all the spectacular milk and potatoes, or just the stiff sea breeze and miles of golden sand that make Jersey boys seem so fresh, friendly and attitude-free?

Well Jersey was part of the Duchy of Normandy, whose dukes became the Kings of England from 1066. After Normandy was surrendered to France in the 13th century, Jersey remained loyal to the English Crown, though it never became part of its Kingdom. During the Second World War, the island was occupied for five years by Nazi Germany and only liberated by the allies on 9th May 1945.
Courtesy Jersey Tourism.
Like its other smaller Channel Island sisters situated between England and France, Jersey is now a self-governing dependency of the United Kingdom, with an exciting mix of British and French cultures. It is not part of the UK and is not represented in the UK Parliament. Since Brexit, Jersey's relationship with the EU is now governed by the UK-EU Trade and Cooperation Agreement in relation to trade in goods and access to fisheries resources in the territorial waters.

Jersey only decriminalised homosexuality as recently as 1990, well after its neighbouring Guernsey in 1983 - and only just before the loitering Isle of Man in 1992. It's also worth knowing that the age of consent for men with men is still eighteen, and then only in 'private' - whatever that means these days. Jersey males however don't all swim over to the UK when they first get the urge. This bijou island - about 9 miles long and 5 miles wide - clings onto its own, seducing the finest with its natural assets and unspoilt ways.

Jersey doesn't have any gay-safe spaces such as bars, clubs or youth centres, nor does it have any public LGBT education or healthcare initiatives. You really just have to be open to saying yes and getting yourself out there to make friends. There are always a lot of social events. Most include drinking but you don’t have to go crazy or go clubbing. There isn’t any real stigma about being apart of the LGBT community, a majority of people, particularly younger people are quite liberal.

So Jersey is certainly not like either Soho nor Canal Street. Like little brother Guernsey, though never far from sea, it has much in common with other more rural gay shires - a scene of bushes and bogs, phone lines and private parties, lay-bys and late-night lock-ins. The one exception is St Helier, the key town on the southern shore, dominated by Elizabeth Castle out on it's causeway and by the Fort Regent, a little inland.
The Cock & Bottle in spite of it's name is not a gay pub. You'll find it on the picturesque Royal Square in St Helier.
Photo: Tony Harris.
In the town centre you will find Havana as an alternative. It's actually quite popular with straight girls who are just out for a dance, but gay guys go there too. Generally it's quite decent music. Again, careful who you try to pick up.

There's obviously no sex shop in capital St Helier to speak of - certainly none that cater for gay tastes - and no gay saunas. However, open air cruising is commonplace on the coast just west of St Aubin, easily accessible by bus from St Helier. Check out Noirmont Common (between St. Aubin & St. Brelade) It has great wooded areas including lots of secluded glades and bushes. Also, ten minutes walk down the path left from Noirmont Point and then left along the rocky coast leads to a very secluded beach popular with gay islanders. There are even several 'nude beach' signs painted on the rocks! Or a sunny afternoon, you can always scoot off to one of the sheltered rocky shores around the beautiful, secluded and sandy Beauport Bay.

But don't forget Jersey's natural assets offer another welcome alternative to your usual gay scene too: a rich, sub-tropical backdrop and haven for romance. Wander barefoot along vast sandy stretches amidst surfer boy babes; drift aimlessly along coastal footpaths, taking in the indigenous green lizard or purple lily; soak up the history, from Castle Gorey to the Royal Square and Opera House.
Swimming at Plemont. Photo: Natalie Meyer.
Moita's is a cosy and most certainly gay-friendly continental and Portuguese restaurant - just a few doors down from the Cosmo on the Esplanade - serving up some of the finest fruits of the local seas. And, although there is no gay-run or overtly gay-friendly accommodation on the island, we were certainly allowed to enjoy our stay at the Seacroft Guest House on Green Street, just through the Fort Regent tunnel and mere minutes from town centre and sea.

Jersey has a spankingly modern airport and is well under an hour from London Gatwick or Southampton Airport with return fares including tax starting at around £50. All routes offer spectacular views of the Isle of Wight, and of Jersey itself on approach.



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THE LITTLE BLACK BOOK

Havana Bar and Night Club (Cattle St, St Helier JE2 4WP; facebook)
Moita's Bistro (20 Esplanade, St Helier, Jersey, Tel: 01534 280780;facebook)
Seacroft Guest House (38 Green Street, St Helier - T: 01534 732 732)
The Cock & Bottle (Royal Square; T: +44 1534 722184; Website)

Revised April 2025.

 

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